Dragonskin Damascus
Here is a list of Dragonskin that is available immediately. The price INCLUDES shipping with DHL to anywhere in the world.
If you are interested in a piece, please E-mail me at: bertie@rietveldknives.com and tell me which number you would like to purchase,
Paypal is accepted.
If you cannot find a piece to your liking, I can do a custom piece to your dimensions, these take a week to make.
If you are interested in a piece, please E-mail me at: bertie@rietveldknives.com and tell me which number you would like to purchase,
Paypal is accepted.
If you cannot find a piece to your liking, I can do a custom piece to your dimensions, these take a week to make.
Heat Treatment and Colouring of Dragonskin Damascus
Heat Treatment
Heat to 900°C-950ºC (1652-1742F)< quench in medium quenching oil
Make sure the quench is done evenly and don’t move the blade sideways in the oil (but you know that!).
Temper at 270°C(518F) for 1 hour, for sturdy blades and 285°C(536F) for 1 hour for more delicate blades.
If the steel warps during heat treat, soften and straighten and re treat. Soften by slow cooling in your heat treat furnace. From about 650-700°C (1202-1294F), or you can heat the spine slightly with a small torch and straighten, but this is risky!
Colouring
This process is basically the same as other hot bluing processes in that you need a stainless tank with a gas (propane) burner underneath to heat it to the desired temp. and an accurate thermometer to monitor the temp.
The following chemicals are needed :
¨ Sodium Hydroxide 2500g (caustic soda)
¨ Sodium Nitrate 500g
¨ Sodium Nitrite 120g
¨ Trisodium Phosphate 60g
¨ Water 5 litres
You can dissolve the solids in the water. You might need to make the recipe 2 or 3 times to suit the tank. Add chemicals slowly as the mix heats up considerably. Especially when adding the Caustic Soda. Remember to make the tank sides quite high so that if the solution boils (and sometimes foams) it does not overflow. Mark the original level of the tank so in future you can add water to that level before starting, as the water boils off in the process.
When hanging the work piece in the tank, I usually do so with stainless wire, (TIG welding wire) so that the blade hangs free, not touching sides or bottom and move the blade position in the tank from time to time to avoid one side colouring differently from the other due to varying temps in the bath.
I usually start heating the tank and hang the work piece in at around 100°C (212F) and boiling starts around 110°C(230F) to 120°C(248F) you might need to add water if the boiling temp is above this, but do so very carefully as the bath temp is above the boiling point of water and it might react violently –add water slowly! Once boiling starts, keep close tabs on the colouring by removing work piece from tank and inspecting. The nice colours will start happening around 120°-130°C.(248-266F).
When you are happy with the colour you have on the blade, rinse in cold water, and make a weak mixture of vinegar and water, maybe 10% or 20% vinegar in a spray bottle and spray the blade after rinsing to neutralise the colouring solution. Then rinse again very well under running water. Dry the blade and spray with a penetrating oil or corrosion block. Leave it on a while and wipe off and apply Renaissance wax. It might be beneficial to heat the blade up a little using a hair dryer, before applying the wax. Buff the wax off and the blade should be protected against corrosion
This steel has a special affinity for colour and very nice colours can be achieved with some patience. Once through the colour spectrum the steel will turn dark blue and then black, finally the blade will turn brown with rust. I can get greens, purples, reds and sometimes all of these on one blade. Stunning! See the Magical Shark Knife under Fixed Blades on my website. This is a bit of a learning curve, but the results are well worth it.
The chemicals will last if not overheated, and you will have to change them occasionally when the colours are not as vivid as before.
I have found the best surface finish to be a fine satin finish 1200grit. Etched surfaces just go dark and do not yield any colour and polishing yields a different set of colours at the same temp. When finished close tank up properly as dogs might try to drink the water and get very nasty caustic burns as a result. Also be very careful as the solution is a very highly concentrated alkaline and can cause serious burns. Always wear a face shield and a respirator and rubber gloves. Also bear in mind that structurally the steel is not as strong as layered Damascus so be careful with thin blades that have delicate points. Best to avoid such designs.
DISCLAIMER
The chemicals and the process above is DANGEROUS and need to be handled carefully. Always use a full face shield and rubber gloves when working with chemicals and if you are not familiar with the chemicals, their properties and the safety rules to be followed when using the chemicals needed, do not attempt to perform the process above and rather give your blade to a gunsmith to colour for you. Bertie Rietveld can in no way be held responsible for any accidents or injury or loss you might incur by using and of the chemicals or following the instructions above.
Layout of blades on the bar of steel and some other tips.
As the Dragonskin bars are forged and not rolled like conventional steel, here are some tips to ensure you get the most out of the steel:
Always position the blade so that the cutting edge is as far from the sides as possible.
Always position the blade so that the back end of the blade corresponds with the end of the bar, tip facing inwards.
Leave cutting edges about 1mm thick before heat treatment, and final grind afterwards being careful not to overheat the edge.
Alternative colouring method for Dragonskin / Non chemical method.
You can also get great colour, blues and purples, when heat colouring. You will need an accurate electric tempering furnace. Completely finish the blade, sharpened as well, then hang the blade in the furnace at the tempering temp, that would be 270 degrees C (518F) for some time, here you would have to experiment with the time, maybe 15 minutes, maybe longer. Furnaces differ and thickness of steel also plays a role, and every time you open the oven and check the blade, the temperature will drop. Keep records and you will know next time approximately how long to leave the blade in.
This method only works with Dragonskin, because it has a high tempering temperature. Nebula and Fracture have a lower tempering temperature so heat colouring does not work for those steels.
An oven with a glass panel for viewing is first prize. I converted an old chicken rotisserie oven, with the added benefit of it rotating the blade for even colours on both sides.
Heat to 900°C-950ºC (1652-1742F)< quench in medium quenching oil
Make sure the quench is done evenly and don’t move the blade sideways in the oil (but you know that!).
Temper at 270°C(518F) for 1 hour, for sturdy blades and 285°C(536F) for 1 hour for more delicate blades.
If the steel warps during heat treat, soften and straighten and re treat. Soften by slow cooling in your heat treat furnace. From about 650-700°C (1202-1294F), or you can heat the spine slightly with a small torch and straighten, but this is risky!
Colouring
This process is basically the same as other hot bluing processes in that you need a stainless tank with a gas (propane) burner underneath to heat it to the desired temp. and an accurate thermometer to monitor the temp.
The following chemicals are needed :
¨ Sodium Hydroxide 2500g (caustic soda)
¨ Sodium Nitrate 500g
¨ Sodium Nitrite 120g
¨ Trisodium Phosphate 60g
¨ Water 5 litres
You can dissolve the solids in the water. You might need to make the recipe 2 or 3 times to suit the tank. Add chemicals slowly as the mix heats up considerably. Especially when adding the Caustic Soda. Remember to make the tank sides quite high so that if the solution boils (and sometimes foams) it does not overflow. Mark the original level of the tank so in future you can add water to that level before starting, as the water boils off in the process.
When hanging the work piece in the tank, I usually do so with stainless wire, (TIG welding wire) so that the blade hangs free, not touching sides or bottom and move the blade position in the tank from time to time to avoid one side colouring differently from the other due to varying temps in the bath.
I usually start heating the tank and hang the work piece in at around 100°C (212F) and boiling starts around 110°C(230F) to 120°C(248F) you might need to add water if the boiling temp is above this, but do so very carefully as the bath temp is above the boiling point of water and it might react violently –add water slowly! Once boiling starts, keep close tabs on the colouring by removing work piece from tank and inspecting. The nice colours will start happening around 120°-130°C.(248-266F).
When you are happy with the colour you have on the blade, rinse in cold water, and make a weak mixture of vinegar and water, maybe 10% or 20% vinegar in a spray bottle and spray the blade after rinsing to neutralise the colouring solution. Then rinse again very well under running water. Dry the blade and spray with a penetrating oil or corrosion block. Leave it on a while and wipe off and apply Renaissance wax. It might be beneficial to heat the blade up a little using a hair dryer, before applying the wax. Buff the wax off and the blade should be protected against corrosion
This steel has a special affinity for colour and very nice colours can be achieved with some patience. Once through the colour spectrum the steel will turn dark blue and then black, finally the blade will turn brown with rust. I can get greens, purples, reds and sometimes all of these on one blade. Stunning! See the Magical Shark Knife under Fixed Blades on my website. This is a bit of a learning curve, but the results are well worth it.
The chemicals will last if not overheated, and you will have to change them occasionally when the colours are not as vivid as before.
I have found the best surface finish to be a fine satin finish 1200grit. Etched surfaces just go dark and do not yield any colour and polishing yields a different set of colours at the same temp. When finished close tank up properly as dogs might try to drink the water and get very nasty caustic burns as a result. Also be very careful as the solution is a very highly concentrated alkaline and can cause serious burns. Always wear a face shield and a respirator and rubber gloves. Also bear in mind that structurally the steel is not as strong as layered Damascus so be careful with thin blades that have delicate points. Best to avoid such designs.
DISCLAIMER
The chemicals and the process above is DANGEROUS and need to be handled carefully. Always use a full face shield and rubber gloves when working with chemicals and if you are not familiar with the chemicals, their properties and the safety rules to be followed when using the chemicals needed, do not attempt to perform the process above and rather give your blade to a gunsmith to colour for you. Bertie Rietveld can in no way be held responsible for any accidents or injury or loss you might incur by using and of the chemicals or following the instructions above.
Layout of blades on the bar of steel and some other tips.
As the Dragonskin bars are forged and not rolled like conventional steel, here are some tips to ensure you get the most out of the steel:
Always position the blade so that the cutting edge is as far from the sides as possible.
Always position the blade so that the back end of the blade corresponds with the end of the bar, tip facing inwards.
Leave cutting edges about 1mm thick before heat treatment, and final grind afterwards being careful not to overheat the edge.
Alternative colouring method for Dragonskin / Non chemical method.
You can also get great colour, blues and purples, when heat colouring. You will need an accurate electric tempering furnace. Completely finish the blade, sharpened as well, then hang the blade in the furnace at the tempering temp, that would be 270 degrees C (518F) for some time, here you would have to experiment with the time, maybe 15 minutes, maybe longer. Furnaces differ and thickness of steel also plays a role, and every time you open the oven and check the blade, the temperature will drop. Keep records and you will know next time approximately how long to leave the blade in.
This method only works with Dragonskin, because it has a high tempering temperature. Nebula and Fracture have a lower tempering temperature so heat colouring does not work for those steels.
An oven with a glass panel for viewing is first prize. I converted an old chicken rotisserie oven, with the added benefit of it rotating the blade for even colours on both sides.
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